Tire Pressure and TPMS
Maintaining proper tire pressure is vital to the performance, handling, safety, efficiency, and longevity of tires. In general, it is recommended to stick with the tire pressure (PSI) rating listed in the door jam of your vehicle. Tires should be checked approximately once per month, regardless of weather and regardless of if you have a tire pressure monitoring system. It is important to have a good quality and accurate tire gauge-plan to spend approximately $15-30 on a quality gauge. In addition, CarHarmony.net recommends getting a manual pump or an electric pump to make changes at your home.
When checking tire pressure, be sure to check the tires on a cold read, by that meaning after the tires have been sitting for a few hours, or overnight if possible. Once tires are driven on, they heat up and the tire pressure increases. Driving to a local gas station to check tires is quite problematic and inaccurate. Make sure that all tires are reading what the manufacturer recommends. In instances where the consumer may have changed the tire size or ratings from OEM specifications, it is then important to perform a tire chalk test. That’s where you can take a piece of chalk and rub it on the face of the tire tread, then drive approximately 50-100 feet in a straight light and see where the chalk has rubbed off. If it has worn more in the center, the tires are considered to be a tad overinflated. If it has worn on the outer edges, the tires are considered to be under inflated. Adjust accordingly.
In addition, if/when there is a Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS) light illuminated on your center cluster, that can mean a few things. It is most likely that one or more of your tire pressure has dropped below the threshold set by the manufacturer. Usually there is a 2-3psi margin of variance. If you are checking your pressure according to CarHarmony.net specifications, there should not be that variance unless there is an actual leak somewhere. Check your tires accordingly. If one tire is lower than the rest, inspect for leaks or take to your local tire shop for inspection/repair. You can check for leaks by visually inspecting for any punctures and by using a spray bottle of water and soap mixture and spraying onto all surfaces of the tires. If it bubbles, then you have found the source of the leak. It is best to remove the tire from the vehicle to check closely and thoroughly.
Also, it is important to note that even if you take your car in for repair to inspect and address the TPMS light issue, often times the technicians overlook the fact that many spare tires on cars have an additional TPMS sensor installed. People often fail to consider checking the spare tire in their monthly PSI checks. In a worst case scenario, the battery in the TPMS sensor installed in each wheel may have worn down in voltage. Sometimes the battery can be replaced and other times a new sensor is required. Sensors are about $30 on average and need to be programmed. Shops charge various amounts for that but if the consumer is mechanically inclined, they can purchase their own Autel programmer for $100-200 to have their own full access to diagnosing, programming, and reprogramming sensors to their car.
Oil Changes and Tire Rotation
One of the most important factors in ensuring the longevity of a car engine is the proper use and maintenance of it’s life source, it’s blood; namely, the oil. On average, the interval of engine oil can range from changes every 5,000 to upwards of 15,000 depending on the application. Follow your manufacturer’s recommendation. However, also use premium synthetic oil in the correct viscosity rating for your car, as well as the most premium/upgraded oil filter you can get.
CarHarmony.net is brand loyal to Mobil 1 brand of oil and filters with somewhere between 10-15k mile intervals. However, oil level should be checked fairly frequently due to the consumption that may take place in your specific engine. Start with checking the oil every month or so, or perhaps every 1,000 miles, until you get a sense of your engine’s consumption. Keep your oil level topped off but keep in mind, like with checking tire pressure, it is best to check the oil level on a cold start or after the car has been sitting for a few hours. Be sure to check the oil level while the car is parked on a flat surface.
Tire rotation intervals can varying depending on manufacturer of the vehicle and the tires, in general, CarHarmony.net recommends a range of every 5-10k miles. The tires should not typically require balancing each time but it is possible as the tire could wear unevenly and could cause heavy spots as it rotates. Rebalance tires if there is shaking in the steering wheel or floor board at highway speeds of around 60-80mph.
Lug Nuts and Torque
On the topic of tire rotation, another overlooked component is proper torque of the lug nuts. There are many things to consider regarding the lug nuts. The first thing CarHarmony.net recommends is that during tire rotations anti-seize should be used on the threads of the studs. Often times, when a repair shop uses their impact gun to secure the lugs, they can over torque the lugs so much that the average user cannot remove them with a standard lug wrench if they have to change the tire on the side of the road. In addition, it becomes quite a safety hazard because the basic bottle jacks or scissor jacks that come with cars are unstable and not secure enough to withstand the impact and rocking that occurs when someone tries to remove an over torqued lug. That’s where anti-seize and proper torque comes into play. A lug nut can become fused onto the stud and will often literally snap off during removal. Anti-seize helps to ensure that there will be smooth operation in the threads of the lug and stud.
Each manufacturer has a specific torque specification but on average the number can be anywhere from about 80ft lbs to 110ft lbs, depending on how many studs there are per wheel, 4, 5, 6, or more in some cases. The impact guns at repair shops can apply upwards of 250ft lbs of torque. To properly torque the lug nuts, one must use a torque wrench at the correct setting. Start by tightening the lugs by hand first or with a ratcheting wrench until fairly tight, then using an alternating cross pattern, tighten the lugs until the lug nut clicks. It is recommended to re-torque wheels after the next 100 miles to ensure they have not loosened.
Air Filters
Air filters are the lungs of the vehicle and play a vital role in collecting clean air into the system of the engine so that it can be measured, metered, and mixed properly with fuel for correct combustion, performance, and efficiency. On average, air filters should be replaced about every 12,000 miles depending on environmental conditions. They are often inexpensive and take less than 5 minutes to change. They can be one of the most overlooked maintenance items.
Another option to consider is a performance upgrade air filter. These type of filters can offer a few advantages, but there can be some things to consider as well. If you chose what is called a “drop in” filter that goes inside the existing stock air box, there are two basic options, a K&N filter that needs to be oiled or another brand of “dry” filter that does not require oiling. There is a plethora of information online about the pros and cons of K&N filters. For basic maintenance and performance gains, CarHarmony.net recommends that the consumer gets a dry filter that only needs to be washed with water and soap or blown out with air and dried before use. One potential problem with the oil type filters is that it requires the user to put the exact correct amount of oil back on the filter. Too much oil can seep into your engine and causes issues with your Mass Air Flow sensor and too little oil may not catch enough of the dirt particles and prevent them from entering your intake. In addition, the cleaning solution and oil is another product expense and thing to keep track of for most people. The other air filter option would be considered an open air element or cold air intake. However, there is much controversy over these as they often lead to the engine sucking in the hot air from around it. These filters remove the stock air box and allow for more airflow into the engine, but often times at the cost of introducing less dense air and heat; which are not good for performance. Unless you research extensively for your application. A simple drop in style filter is often the perfect blend of mild performance gains and lower cost and maintenance over time.